12/14/02

John Washburn and I had a great run from Harriet St. to Yellowbanks (see photos).  The water was clear and cold, there were about 60 eagles, including a large golden eagle, and hundreds of canada geese.  Margaret and I went out to Hartford to check out the new Hwy. 5, and our old boat ramps are once again accessible from Hwy. 5.

12/1/02

December 1, 2002 was a good day for paddling.  I did a little picking up at Harriet St. boat ramp, then paddled up to Scott Ave. dam.  There was some ice along the shore and chunks of ice in the river, and the water was very clear.  It was about a half hour upstream against a strong wind and some fast running water.  I had to walk upstream through the clear rapids by the railroad bridge, which I dearly love to do.  The gulls were in the hundreds and there were several eagles and a hawk to keep me company.  The run downstream was very fast, although I had to walk across some shallow spots.  Harriet St. is pretty well picked up, and several cars pulled up to spot for eagles and gulls and thanked me for keeping things cleaned up.  The city was in with a street sweeper and is picking up trash bags after I clean up.

11/18/02

The Federal Recreational Trails grant review committee was impressed with the Van Buren grant at our meeting on 11/18/02.  Contact the Trails Committee if you would like a hard copy of the grant, which is now public information.  I have transcribed the wonderful Cultural and Geographical history that was included in the grant.  This document takes you back to the 1830's, when Iowa was opened for settlement by the Blackhawk Treaty, but was a land shared by whites and Indians.  This was a time when the best land was along the creeks that flowed into the Des Moines, and there was a town on either side of every creek.

11/17

A 20 mile paddle from Howell Station, south of Red Rock, to Eveland Access in Mahaska County was a hard run but rewarding.  We found Lamphier's Landing access was little changed since this summer.  Eagles by the dozens were in the trees by Cedar Creek.

11/12/02   There is progress being made. The Riverwalk project includes a boat chute that will take paddlers through the Center St. and Scott Ave. dams. I still have concerns about drown-proofing so no one could be caught in the terrible current, but the major concern of an impassable obstacle would be addressed. The really good news here is that there is funding for this effort.

I spoke with the City Manager's staff today about the boat chutes, better signage, and portage trails. I also am pleased to report that the boat ramp at SE 14th St. has been picked up and is being watched for illegal dumping. I can take groups in there for clean up and the city will pick up the trash bags, a major development. And, the city will put up water trail signs at 3 access points.

The city of Des Moines is really making an effort to honor the family's request that improvements be made to make the river less dangerous.  Steve is with us in many ways as we work to complete his journey. I am driven by my respect for him and by the power of the grief I feel from his friends and family. There are powerful forces at work here, a spirit that breaks down barriers and allows me to accomplish improvements when I was previously denied even the opportunity to make my case for the river.

I truly believe that we will enhance many lives, and save many others from a tragic accident.

Federal recreational trails funding discussed at public meeting Nov. 18

AMES, Iowa - Nov. 1, 2002 - A committee meeting to discuss applications for funding from the Federal Recreational Trails Fund was held Monday, Nov.18. The Iowa Department of Transportation held the meeting at DOT headquarters, 800 Lincoln Way, Ames, in the Office of Systems Planning conference room from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m.

General information about this funding source or the meeting is available from Nancy Anania, 800 Lincoln Way, Ames, IA 50010, 515-239-1621 or nancy.anania@dot.state.ia.us

There is one water trail grant application, a really good one from Van Buren County. I was there as the committee member representing paddlers. Others attended and showed support for water trails in Iowa.

There also are excellent trail grants from Dallas County, Fairfield, and the DNR.

It helped to have non-motorized trail supporters there to argue for continued support for those trails.

For more information about this grant program, see http://www.desmoinesriver.org/iowa_water_trail_grant.htm

11/2

I enjoyed a 23 mile paddle with Nate Hoogeveen from SE 14th St. to Runnells Bridge on 11/2, it was in the mid-30s, but not much wind.  Quite a few eagles and herons were spotted.  I enjoyed catching up on some of his adventures in his more than 1,000 miles of paddling this season.  I enjoyed his tales of 101 ways of finding a shuttle,  and the stories of the many interesting people he has met in his travels.  We're looking forward to the book, and to his Armchair Paddler presentation 12/8 at Canoesport in Indianola.

11/1

The Central Iowa Paddlers end-of-season party was a fun event.  Thanks to Lynn for having us at her rural home.  Robin Fortney writes:

Dear Paddler Friends:

We had a great fall party Saturday eve at Lynn's place near Valeria/Mingo. Good company, good food, crisp air, sky full of stars, and a bonfire made of the usual fire wood, plus an old picnic table, upholstered chair and various other incendiaries. Lynn introduced us to her pets, which included 11 fancy chickens, 2 cats and an African clawed frog that lives in the bathroom and likes to chew on fingers. The Des Moines, Van Meter and Ames areas were well represented, as were both white water and flat water contingents. Thanks again, Lynn, for your great hospitality!

There were several paddlers at the Principal Riverwalk Public Meeting on 10/29/02.   The plans are quite impressive, Vote for the "Majestic Mast" pedestrian bridge on the Register web page because it is actually in contact with the river, and because it would be cool to paddle near that giant mast.  We don't need another structure that ignores the fact that the river is WET.

10/19

We had a really great paddle from Yellow Banks to Runnells on Saturday, 10/19, for Robin Fortney's birthday.  Ten people, 8 boats, lovely crisp day, perfect water levels and plenty of sand bars to explore.

10/7

As a result of my presentation to the Des Moines City Council on Monday, 10/7/02, Harriet St. access has been picked up and is now on the regular patrol to prevent illegal dumping.  Much thanks to Bill Stowe and DSM Public Works.  Other improvements will be discussed with the City Manager soon.  My sincere appreciation to the family of Steven Nourse who waited with me for 3 hours so I could make my presentation to the Council.  And thanks to my wife and to other paddlers who waited it out and were very supportive.

River trail signs have gone up at Jester Park and at Yellow Banks Park.   Thanks to Polk County Conservation!!

9/28

September 28th, Des Moines River Yellow Banks to Runnells, by Cynthia Pearson (2000cfs)

Morning showers dissolved to a sunny warm Sunday, fabulous for a paddle on this pretty stretch of the Des Moines River. Trees are just getting ready to turn, you can see shades of yellow eeking out, and some strains of red in the foliage, too. Gerry, Kerry, Deb, and Cyn put in around noon and made our way down the river. Bends in the river were such that our headwind occasionally became a tailwind . . . this was definitely a paddle and not a float! But a great paddle. Many sandbars to choose from, sun sparkling on the water, we sighted about 4 bald eagles, numerous jumping fish, a beaver, and encountered about the same number of "pelican conventions" to see about 500 pelicans in all and some fabulous bird shows. We stopped for lunch, and made another stop so Gerry could show off his rock-skipping talent. Since he topped his own skip-record, he hustled us to move on as Deb and Kerry threatened to overtake his new record! Kerry found a cow pelvis bone, the rest of us were content with lighter souvenirs and collected bird feathers. Water was shallow but plentiful, pretty, and refreshing for those of us who went in for a dunk. We pulled out at around 5:30 and grabbed a bite to eat together in Carlisle before heading home. All in all, this is a fabulous stretch of river, wide vistas, beautiful bluffs, and it's only going to get better as the trees begin to turn. Paddle on!

9/21

I attended a benefit for Steven Nourse  at Swede Point Park near Madrid on 9/21/02, and had a chance to meet friends and family.  I learned that Steve and Larry had been at a memorial service by the river that day.  They started from Sycamore Access near Saylorville, and portaged around Center St. dam.  They were told by some onlookers that the Scott Ave. dam was runnable.  Larry and Steve had considerable discussion about the Scott Ave. dam, and even went up on shore to look at it.   Steve made the decision to try and run the dam, a tragic misjudgement.   However, had the dam been engineered for safety he would not have died.  Letter to Des Moines City Council  Note: I made a 15 minute presentation at the City Council meeting October 7, 4:30 p.m., at Des Moines City Hall, E 1st and Locust.

I want to say this: The time  has come to develop safe water trails in Iowa.   Other areas of the country have been moved by the death of a devoted paddler to provide safe passage through dangerous dams, or provide portages around them.  (Steve Weliver cites Englewood, Co. as an example)  An angled extension at the base of the dam would "drownproof"  the dam at Scott Ave. 

I pledge to work with the family and friends of Steven Nourse to eliminate the danger at this low head dam and others along the Des Moines, including the Cornbelt REC dam near Humboldt, Ft. Dodge, Lehigh, Fraser, and Boone Waterworks.

I had an opportunity to talk with the Public Works director for Englewood, CO recently.  He said that several kayakers had tried to run a dam on the South Platte River in Englewood and drowned back in the 1980's, so the city and the Army Corps of Engineers built an angled extension onto the base of the dam that eliminated the "boil" and kept the daredevils from being sucked under.  He said that the city understood that kayakers were not going to stop running the dam, so the best thing to do was to eliminate the danger.  I think this would work for Iowa rivers as well.  

There is an article about the Des Moines River Water Trail in the September issue of Hooked on the Outdoors by N.H.  Thanks Nate

9/2

The water was just fine (2000 cfs) for a float from Boone Waterworks to Hwy. 30, W. of Boone on Labor Day, 9/2.  We were 5 paddlers and 4 boats.  There were wooded bluffs, the high bridge, passing trains, fishermen along the way, and other paddlers on the water.   A lovely day, and Seven Oaks had this stretch looking good.

8/23

Friday/Saturday, 8/23, 8/24.  Paddling at midnight, under a full moon, from 3 miles S of Hwy. 44 to Adel Kinnick-Feller Park on the Raccoon River.   It was different, so beautiful, a little scary when 2 boats collided and dumped, but everyone got in safely.   Highlights: good food, good company,  fireworks, and a warm fire on the sandbar, paddling in the mist, guiding each other through snags. 

I got home at 2:20 AM, then got up the next morning for the Izaak Walton clean-up at Gray's Lake.  The river clean-up was cancelled due to high-water (too dangerous, I had to laugh). 

8/17

Saturday, August 17 was cool and clear.  I used my self-shuttle system to make the run from SE 14th St. to Yellow Banks.  The herons were flying, and allowed me to take several photos of them along the shore.  I also saw several mature bald eagles, just close enough to see the distinctive white head and tail.   I was also looking for the body of the kayaker who drowned, and did not know that he had been found. 

Warning: do not attempt to run the dams at Center St.  (just below the Botanical Center) or at Scott Ave. bridge (just below the baseball stadium).  These are dangerous dams.   A kayaker drowned at Scott Ave. dam 8/10/02.   His body was recovered 8/17/02 after considerable effort by Des Moines fire and police rescue units.  I attended the memorial service 8/22/02, close to 200 people to say farewell to an artist, a musician, and a loving father who also loved to be on the river.

8/1

Focus groups (8/1/02)  for the Principal Riverwalk in Des Moines included representatives from Central Iowa Paddlers and the Des Moines Rowing Club.  We were given a wonderful opportunity to share our wishes for access to the downtown river for paddlers and rowers.  We are agreed that the best plan is to raise Scott Ave. dam and remove Center St. dam.

7/13

150 paddlers, 90 boats enjoyed perfect weather and plenty of water July 13 and 14 for Canoe Van Buren .

5 boats, 8 paddlers enjoyed the 4th of July on a scenic river with enough water to be comfortable and enough sand bars to stop just about anywhere.  (story, photos, and a short video clip)

6/30

5 paddlers from CIP took time to paddle under the downtown bridges on Saturday morning 6/30/02 during the Des Moines Art Festival.  Thanks to Nate, Paul, Mark, Leonard and Gerry for putting on a little show for an appreciative crowd and for giving the people a reminder that water sports belong in the mix of riverfront planning.

6/26/02, a big group from SPPG, the State Public Policy Group, cleaned up around Harriet Street Boat Ramp.  A big thank you to Sarah Dixon for organizing the group (on her birthday) and to Diane Ford Shivvers of the DNR for making the arrangements.  (see photos)  And thanks to the city for hauling the big pile of trash away.

Do you want a Des Moines River Water Trail sign with the colorful logo?  Let me know, it's yours for $15. (below cost, but this is a public service not a business)   (2 left as of 1/15/03).

6/02
Thanks to Bob Modersohn . . .In an article about sit-on-top (SOT) kayaks and a demonstration of them by Boulevard Sports 6/22 at Grays Lake in DSM, Bob writes:

"There's nothing amateur about SOT kayaks. Some paddlers even take them onto big waterways like the Great Lakes. Gerry Rowland, a dedicated paddler of the Des Moines River and leader of the Iowa Water Trails movement, has paddled his trusty SOT Scupper Pro over miles and miles of water, winter and summer."

I would add: I've paddled my Scupper Pros (I have 2 from Boulevard Sports) in all seasons, and every month since April of 1997. In that time, I've paddled every mile of the Des Moines from Estherville to Keokuk at least twice, and in some cases many more times. I have a system that works well, including:
-a self-shuttle with a towed car and the Blue Ox towing system from Schuling Hitch,
-a Garmin mapping GPS and Mapsource software that puts every gravel road and every bend of the river in the palm of my hand,
-a light-weight Swift paddle, Stohlquist PFD, and Chiota neoprene boots from CanoeSport Outfitters to move me quickly and keep me safe
-and a boat that has met every challenge the Des Moines has presented, including ice, rocks, downed trees, wind, waves, and the long hard miles that I enjoy paddling.

Several have asked about the water trail logo. I put a link to the graphic on the water trail page,
http://www.desmoinesriver.org/iowa_water_trail_grant.htm. I've also had 25 Des Moines River water trail signs made at my own expense, and they will be looking for good homes. First Class Signs in Ames has taken the logo and converted it into a "sign-quality" graphic at the request of the Skunk River group. Now, they will make signs for any of the water trail groups. Signs are cheaper in quantity, so let me know if your group or county wants to place an order and we can batch them up for a better price.

6/19

A bit of a heads-up, we have an author in our midst. Nate Hoogeveen is writing a book about paddling Iowa rivers. He is an outdoor writer (he does this for a living) who has come home to Iowa to write about rivers and streams in the beautiful land. Nate is well equipped with his new Necky Looksha Sport, and I can tell you that he can handle even the most extreme conditions, including 4-5 waves and 35 mph winds such as we had on a recent paddle (6/19/02) from Runnells Bridge to the Boxcars, and out into Lake Red Rock.

I stopped at Boxcars (I am still sore from that challenging paddle) and offered to shuttle Nate back to his car, but he was determined to go on. I watched him fighting the waves until he disappeared around the sand island, where he spent the night with his tent lashed to driftwood. Nate will be out on the water a lot over the next 15 months, and he is very interested in learning about the rivers from those who live and play by and on them.

It is a treat to paddle with Nate, and to watch him work. He has taken transportation maps from the DOT web site, and he is tracking and making notes on every bend in the river as he goes along. Where I would tend to push past a phenomenon like the river channel dividing, Nate takes the time to explore. We found a spot where the Des Moines spills over into Sugar Creek along the bluffs where the river and the lake join at Red Rock, and we then took time to enjoy the vast expanse of the Red Rock flood plain in all its wildness. Please make him welcome. (journate@yahoo.com)

6/16

Father's Day, June 16, a group of Central Iowa Paddlers enjoyed a 12-mile paddle on the Boone River from Briggs Woods to Tunnel Mill Access.  We were 11 paddlers and 9 boats.  It was a beautiful warm day, with the water running at about 500 cfs.  This is a DNR "protected" river and the scenery is stunning.  The Boone River, by the way, runs into the Des Moines River just above Hwy 175.  Photo of our happy group. 

6/1

I enjoyed a solo paddle south of Des Moines (SE 14th St. to Yellowbanks) last Saturday, 6/1/02. I found the permanent eagle nest, watched the mature bald eagle flying out and back from her perch high above in the cottonwood tree. I also saw a fledgling eagle taking some practice flights, an amazing sight.

6/2

I also made a water trail presentation to the Izaak Walton Leage state conference on Sunday, and was warmly received and encouraged. The mayor of Ft. Dodge was in attendance, and told me of improvements along the riverfront. I checked out the new launch area by the lower dam, and they have done a lot of work.

Also, watch out. I have a Des Moines River Water Trail sign from First Class Signs in Ames, and it is gorgeous. I'm ordering more signs, so I may be looking to put some up along the river.

5/26

On Sunday, 5/26/02, I made a solo run from Red Rock dam (Howell Station Landing) to Eveland Access in Mahaska County.  The water was unusually clear, and not too cold.   This is a 19 mile run, and even with a headwind from the south, I averaged over 4 mph and made it in 5 hours.  There are lots of sand bars for stopping, and I did make quite a few stops.  My shuttle car system is just ducky.

There were several items of note.  There is a new bridge nearly done at Harvey, 2 miles below Red Rock dam.  It would be nice to have an access put in there.   It would also be great if the old bridge could be saved as a bike/pedestrian bridge.  And, how about putting up identification signs on at least the new bridges.   Also, I found a new boat ramp just past the Hwt. 92 bridge, about 9 miles downstream.  I marked it with the GPS and came back to it.  It is called Lamphier's Landing, and it is open to the public.  There will be a bait shop and campground as well.  About 1.6 miles E of the Hwy 92 bridge, take Bowers Ave S, then follow the road down the hill to the landing.

It was wonderful to paddle in shorts and a T shirt and sandals.  The first paddle of summer, really, and there were great blue herons all along the way.  I love the tree-covered hills.  Eveland Access is a very inviting place to land, all the amenities are there.   I also appreciated all the friendly boaters and shore-dwellers who waved and wished me a good day.

Note: Hwy. 5 is closed from Carlisle to Pleasantville.  To get to the Runnells Bridge access, Take S23, then G24 to Hartford.  Go South on what's left of Hwy. 5, then take the first left down to Carpenter  Rd.  It's local traffic only and be careful.

5/5

The water is just right for a run on the West Fork.  I ran the West Fork from Rodman to Bradgate on Saturday, 5/5/02 and from Emmetsburg to Rodman on Sunday.  The gauges are reading about 900 cfs, perfect for a total of 33 miles in 2 days.  I noted that much of the shore is part of various Natural Resource Areas, which makes for deep woods and lots of wildlife.  Below Rodman, I saw a dozen great blue heron nests high in the cottonwoods, and then I saw that there was a heron in every nest and many in the air.  Deer were moving about in the woods, and seemed unconcerned about a lone kayaker.  A solitary bald eagle chittered at me as I passed her giant nest at the top of a huge cottonwood below Emmetsburg, and raccoons stared at me from their half-buried Ford Galaxy.  It was cool and windy both days, but the water carried me along and there were lots of sandbars along the way.  I've paddled every section of the West Fork twice since 1997.

4/20

I camped out at Five Island Lake Friday, 4/19/02, and got an early start Saturday 4/20/02 from Peterson Access by Wallingford.   At 700 cfs.,  I averaged about 3.5 mph and did the 17 mile run to Emmetsburg in just under 6 hours.  The trees are just beginning to leaf out, so there was a pretty spray of green through the greenbelt.  Geese were along the whole way, and I noted the variety of calls they make, especially when they are in pairs.  This bunch would take flight off the downed cottonwoods that are all along the route.  I saw great blue herons, several eagles, and the turkey vultures that are the harbingers of summer.

4/02

Thanks to the Fort Dodge Messenger for a good article on the river and the water trail on 4/7/02.  I was inspired to go north and make the 10 mile run from Bradgate to Rutland on 4/10/02.  There was 25 mph wind from the south, but the West Fork was running at 600 cfs and I figured the current would move me along.  I found Willow Access in good shape, although the sign is missing.  I had forgotten how much of that stretch is high wooded bluffs, so I could hear the wind thundering through the trees, but I was sheltered most of the way.  A band of geese stayed with me, and waded out into the river to show me the shallow areas to avoid.  The highlight of the day was spotting a river otter running along the river bank with water dripping off his little snout, then popping into a spot in the rip rap. 

I made the run in about 3 hours.  I stopped under the wooden bridge off 205th St. and discovered that the bridge is covered with gravel when a tractor rumbled over head and gravel came down through the wooden deck.  The take out at Rutland went fine, Rose Mill Park just keeps getting better.  I did note graffiti on the pump house, and the lack of warning signs for the dam.

3/16

Saturday, 3/16/02, was perfect for paddling the 6 mile stretch from Runnells Bridge to Bennington Access.  The water is low, but there was no ice in the river.  I had a band of 6 geese with me all the way, and several eagles were soaring high overhead with white heads and tails still visible.  It took 2 and a half hours to paddle, going non-stop against a moderate wind, so I was sore the next day.  This was the first outing with the mapping GPS and it was cool to have waypoints every mile and to see where I was in relation to the river.

I have spent several days driving the river with the new mapping GPS.  I discovered that the old GPS was several hundred feet off, so over the past two weeks I have visited 60 boat ramps from Estherville to Keokuk.  New coordinates are posted at http://showcase.netins.net/web/gazebo/rivertrail.htm.

River Access clean-up, Saturday, 2/23/02

Thanks to all who joined me at the Harriet St. Boat ramp for a clean-up morning. We started at 8:30 AM and went until 11:30. Des Moines Parks and Recreation  had bags and trucks as well as staff support. Harriet St. boat ramp is north and east of the Des Moines River bridge off SE 14th St. in Des Moines. If you are coming from the south, turn right at the bait shop on Harriet St., and go up and over the levee just past the compost piles. If you are coming from the north, turn left onto Harriet St. and do the same.   The area looks much better.

2/3

Sunday, 2/3/02 was a gorgeous day for a run from Sycamore (NW66th in Johnston) to Prospect Park in Des Moines.  The winter light reflected from the snow was just dazzling.  The border to the left is the ripples of golden light on the sandy mini-dunes of the river bottom in the cold, clear winter water.  More photos are available.

1/17

The river is open from Ft. Dodge to Eveland as of 2/24/02.  The water was open at SE 14th St. in Des Moines  1/17/02.  The levee is being repaired, with fresh new  rock along the shore.  The water is clear, and the sunlight dances on the sandy river bottom like golden chainlink.  I had a super paddle from SE 14th St. to Yellowbanks on 1/19/02.   There were hundreds of geese and ducks along the way, and a dozen eagles flew near their nest by the old power plant.

I'm also happy to announce that I am the new water trail rep for the Federal Recreational Trails Program advisory committee.  I look forward to working with the committee, and to working with all of you to get some good grant applications for the approximately $0.5 million available each year.  Water trails are eligible, and they have been included in the state trails plan. (click here for more information on water trails in Iowa)

1/5