Des Moines River Water Trail, 2003
November 15
Big improvements at Harriet St. boat ramp thanks to DSM Public Works and
Bill Stowe. A no dumping sign has
been posted, dumped items have been removed, and the potholes have been filled
and graded. See photos of an area that is ready for winter paddling and
eagle watching.
I got out for a paddle on a 60 degree day last Saturday, from Birdland
Marina down to the I-235 bridge construction. There was still some fall color,
yellows and oranges reflected in the water, along with the blue sky and puffy white
clouds. I got to watch a workboat moving a barge with a large crane, and to see the
new sections of the bridge.
I was at a Project Aware meeting this week. The trip is June 19-26, 2004 from Humboldt County (Gotsch Park) to Des Moines. I also met with a group in Hardin County about an Iowa River Water Trail grant. Iowa Falls is truly a scenic city. I was treated to a view of the amazing new Hwy. 20 bridge over the Iowa River from the Sac and Fox overlook near Steamboat Rock.
November 6
Thanks to Canoesport Outfitters for an excellent program on cold weather paddling gear. I found out that it is possible to get an undershirt with seams that do not chafe.
November 2
I sent a request to the Des Moines city action center on
the web site about the mess at Harriet St. access. Within 2 days the large items
that had been dumped (a stove, old car doors and the like) had been picked up by city
crews, thanks to the intervention of Bill Stowe, Public Works director. Thank
you. A No Dumping sign is now placed prominently right at the boat ramp.
I spent several hours Saturday picking up cans, bottle, and wrappers and took two
garbage bags of trash to a Polk County site nearby. Thank you again. The
access is ready for eagle watchers, and I have some ideas on how to keep things picked up.
October 14
The Regional meeting of the Water Quality Task Force in Ankeny
was eye-opening. Scientists can actually determine the sources of pollution in the
water and use GIS to find the 5-10% of the watershed that is causing 80-90% of the
pollution. Then we need to fix it. Maybe there is hope for clean water by
2010.
Oct. 12
The wind and waves were great for a paddle on Lake Red Rock.
We had a nice group, sorry guys I could not resist the call of the open water.
Oct. 4
What a beautiful day for a paddle from the Woodward Sub-1 ramp off 130th Ct. down to Jester Park. We did the 8 mile run in just over 3 hours, with the wind at our backs. The big treat was the bird life, including hundreds of pelicans. Jester Park access has a Des Moines River Water Trail sign, it would be great to have a sign at the Woodward ramp (Dallas County).
Sept. 20
River levels are way down, I enjoyed a day at Gray's Lake. I was pleased to
have some company on the lake. There was plenty of room to park.
Sept. 12
Polk County Conservation Board promoted water trails at the IACCB conference in
Des Moines. A kayak was raffled off that was covered with the signatures of people
who support Iowa water trails. The kayak was donated by water trail advocates,
including Central Iowa Paddlers, Iowa Water Trail Association, Iowa White Water Coalition,
Seven Oaks Outfitters, Canoesport Outfitters, and other friends.
August 2:
The River Ripple from Eddyville to Ottumwa was well-attended. Lots of different boats, a lot more young people and families this year. Thanks to Dave Kraemer of Ames and to Big Brothers/Big Sisters of Ottumwa for making the arrangements. We've had this super event from 1999-2003, with last year off. See Dave Kraemer's column in the Ames Tribune.
Nate Hoogeveen writes Wild Iowa every other week for Cityview, Wild Iowa (DM
Cityview). Check under Columns, or go to the archives and search for
Hoogeveen. Nate is one of Iowa's undiscovered treasures, a gifted writer who
inspires and lives his love of all that is natural and beautiful in Iowa.
Road trip. March 30-April 1 I drove to Wahpeton ND and Fargo ND to see first hand the rock rapids conversions at the low head dams on the Red River of the North. I also visited the headwaters of the Red River. On my return trip I stopped at Lake Shetek, the headwaters of the Des Moines River, and visited boat ramps at Windom, Jackson and Petersburg. I have many photos and videos that will allow you to get a good look at what can happen when those in authority really understand both the beauty and the danger of the river and work together to turn a man-made horror into a thing of power and beauty. Will it happen on the Des Moines? It is about to happen in Jackson, MN, which has a truly scary very high low head dam. Signs are encouraging in Des Moines as well. Take a look!!
7/13/03
Great paddling on the lower Des Moines. At 18,000 CFS I
averaged 5 mph over 30 miles in 2 days, Eveland to Eddyville on Saturday and Ottumwa to
Selma on Sunday. There were just a few branches in the river, lots of power boats
out but just 1 other paddler. Perfect weekend, great weather, very sad. I did
check out Keosauqua and Bentonsport, and was very happy to see the water trail sign bolted
to a post right at the boat ramp.
7/5/03
It was a hot one, but the river is running fast (14,000 cfs) from Harriet St.
down to Yellow Banks. Last year there were lots of sand bars, this year just a few.
I saw the bald eagles, including an immature that is starting to fill in the white
tail feathers. The quacking heron flew with me almost the whole way.
6/22/03
My wife and I took a nice leisurely paddle from Prospect Park to Birdland this morning. She had not paddled on a river before. The woods are deep and green along the way, and we were treated to the flight of a great blue heron. Thanks to the boaters who slowed as they passed, thanks for nothing to the speed boaters who gave us a scare. The cleanup done by the Watershed U volumteers made a big difference, this was a very pleasant stretch of river. Thanks also to Mr. Heinrick's high school class for cleaning up at Harriet St. access. (and thanks to Diane Ford-Shivvers for making arrangements)
6/1/03
Project Aware paddlers made their way down the
Maquoketa River from Backbone State Park. There were about 100 people involved in
this 90 mile, 7 day event. There were plenty of extra canoes, paddles and
lifejackets for any who would like to help with the cleanup and water quality monitoring
efforts. (the brave souls who started are going to be very weary) I enjoyed
the programs on water quality and the history of Backbone State Park on Sunday night and I
spent part of the day Monday helping out along the river. See the DNR web site for more information
on the excellent programs and the daily route information. The effort is very well
organized, there are lots of passenger vans and trailers for shuttling, and the food was
good. (Photographs) Mike Kilen did a great write
up in the Sunday Register (6/15/03).
The new DNR Canoe Guide is out, with much improved maps and river descriptions. I
much appreciated having the whole Des Moines River included. Mileage information is
no longer listed, however. I got mine from a County Conservation
officer.
5/17
Thanks to Skunk River Paddlers for a great day on the South Skunk. The temps and water conditions were just right for 8 people and 7 boats. We ran from Story City (good spot for a rock rapids conversion at a low head dam) down to Gilbert (Soper's Mill), about 11 miles. We had columbine and sweet william on the banks, herons in the rookery, and a big old goose that tried to land in a canoe. The highlight of the day was the chainsaw competition, let's just say that there is one less portage for a while. Good folks, scenic river, and only one dumped boat. Several new paddlers were with us, and we hope they'll join us again.
5/4
There were about 20 paddlers and interested folks at the Cedar
River park in Cedar Falls for Paddlefest. Thanks to the Prairie River Paddlers for
hosting, and for the good hot chili. It was fun to watch the whitewater boaters
playing in the rain, and congratulations to the hardy downriver paddlers. The Iowa
Whitewater Coalition meeting went well, and we learned that there is a now a chunk of
state money for urban riverfront projects.
4/26
I was in NE Iowa this weekend. We were 10 paddlers and 8 boats, 4 of them canoes. I took
along my tow car, it was 200 miles each way. I got up to Cresco at about midnight Friday
and slept in the Jimmy at the county Fairgrounds. The local police came by for a visit at
about 2 AM, but they were easily convinced that I was a harmless paddler.
I got moving at about 6 AM with a little breakfast and a run through the lovely
hills around the Upper Iowa river. I parked the shuttle car at Bluffton across from high
limestone bluffs and an old growth fir tree forest. I scouted out the area marking the
Chimney Rock access (mid point) and the put in at Kendallville, then met up with the group
at Randy's campground, which sits on a bend in the river across from 200 ft. high
limestone bluffs topped with an evergreen forest, just incredibly beautiful. It was good
to chat with the paddlers, and I was amazed to hear that Nate and Dick saw a cougar on a
more remote stretch of river earlier in the week.
Our shuttle was pretty clever, with one paddler (Dick) bringing a trailer with gear
box. I took 1 other boat and four other paddlers so we got everybody upstream with just 3
vehicles. We were launched a little before noon, and found right away that the river was
low. We soon were looking for the best way through the many riffles. As Diane pointed out,
you could bounce off the bottom better if you "gunned" it. About 3 miles in the
canoes made adjustments so they were able to keep up. We enjoyed the high bluffs, the
bluebells, eagles, geese, ducks, muskrats, otters, the evergreen stands, and the mild
weather. After lunch we hit a rough patch of water about 8 miles in, 2 kayakers were
carried hard into the river bank by fast water and capsized, but they were ok except for a
lost camera.
It was 7 pm by the time were done. Just as we were starting to fade, we came on the
Chimney Rock formation, 200 ft. high with the cliffs weathered into long vertical columns.
This is magnificent scenery, and I was glad I had made the trip. We were all glad to get
to the campground at Bluffton, about 16 miles per the GPS. I drove back to Des
Moines, so I missed the CIP birthday party for Lynn. I have to tell you that Lynn
had the cutest little part-lab puppy that proved to be an excellent companion and a
natural swimmer.
Paddling trip Sunday, 4/20/03, I enjoyed the run from Harriet St. access to Yellow Banks. The trees are budding a light green, there were herons and eagles, a pretty gray day with plenty of water. I picked up at Harriet St., more to do tomorrow.
Thanks to the folks in Ft. Dodge for a good crowd (4/17/03). I presented for the brown bag lunch, about 50 people came to hear about water trails.
3/22/03
Spring paddle on Saturday, March 22, Sycamore Access to Birdland. There were 4 of us,
and it was a beautiful day. We enjoyed seeing lots of beaver signs, including dens
and gnawed trees as well as slides down to the river and some lovely beaver art, and then
we got within about 10 feet of 2 beavers splashing in the water. Awesome, said
Gerry, John, Dick and Molly.
2/23/03
A super paddling film festival (see photos and
video), plus the River Ripple from Eddyville to Ottumwa is back on, August 2!!!
2/1/03
The river was open for an ARTS paddle (Another Run to Saylorville). We
were 7 boats in very nice weather for February. We were much saddened by the loss of
the shuttle Columbia and her brave crew.
1/27/03
An excellent season planning meeting at Robin's. Details of upcoming events on the
Central Iowa Paddlers page.
1/26/03
A good day for paddling from Sycamore to Saylorville. Thanks to John for breaking up
the ice around the boat ramp. Next trip Saturday Feb. 1, 1:00 at Sycamore.
I got into the river in my NRS hydroskin wetsuit and stayed nice and comfy.
Many beaver sites were observed.
1/25/03
Congratulations to Van Buren County for their successful
water trail grant application.
I was so pleased to be asked to present a program at the annual meeting of the Van Buren
County Trails Association. We had 50 people at the Red Barn Bistro near Lebanon, IA.
I got to hear about the excellent organization in Van Buren that is working to
develop bike, walking, birding, and equestrian trails as well as the water trail.
How wonderful to be able to share with them how well their grant was written (scored the
highest by the Federal Recreational Trails advisory committee of which I am a member) and
to congratulate the group on their commitment to bringing much needed improvements to the
water trail through 40 miles of the county (see the Special Van Buren County Section link
above). And my wife and I just loved our room and breakfast at the the Mansion Inn
in Keosauqua.
Happy New Year
1/1/03
We had a good group for a paddle up to Saylorville on New Year's Day.
Eagles and Kingfishers were enjoyed by all. Temps were in the low
30's, with some snow in the air. I love Iowa!! Check out the
great photos from Dick Howard and John Washburn!!
12/28/02
Holiday best wishes to Iowa Paddlers. I was out yesterday picking up at
Harriet St. in Des Moines, and paddled up to the Scott Ave. dam with temps in the upper
50's and eagles all around. (DM Parks has been great about picking up the trash bags, and
the area is looking pretty good)
The Des Moines River is open from Sycamore Access to the Saylorville Dam (I checked
yesterday). Stream flow from the dam is 400 cfs, perfect for an upstream paddle. I have
been paddling upstream on New Year's for several years, and I'll be there again this year.
It's about 2.3 miles upstream, there are geese and eagles about, and the pay-off is being
able to see 4-5 feet down into the clear water below the dam and watch schools of huge
catfish. It takes about an hour and a half to paddle up and a half hour to float down,
more if you want to stop on sandbars. There may be some walking required in the low water
at the rapids by the Cottonwood fishing pier, so good boots are recommended (some of us
enjoy walking in the cold clear water), but John Washburn claims he can paddle through and
others are willing to give a tow.
Sycamore Access is off NW 66th St. in Johnston. Sycamore is off NW 66th St., on the east
side of the river north of the bridge. NW 66th intersects NW Beaver Rd. and 12th
St./Morningside Dr.
Gerry (hasn't missed a month of Iowa paddling since April of 1997) Rowland
