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November 9, 1998 
 

Dear Mom and Dad,

The kayaking was great.  I covered 9 miles on Saturday, and 16 miles on Sunday.  This is up by the MN border, about 170 miles from home.  I drove up Friday and camped north of Ft. Dodge, then pulled the tow car up to Wallingford.  This is the West Fork of the Des Moines, which is fairly narrow and steep.  At one point, I got up to 15 mph in a series of rapids.  I saw lots of trees gnawed by beavers, and in many places downed trees made the river nearly impassable.  The terrain is hilly, with lots of timber and some pasture, and the roads and railroads are close to the river. 

The Saturday run had lots of wildlife.  I saw deer on the banks several times.  They would stop, stare, then bound away.  At one point, a deer dashed into the river just a 100 feet or so ahead of me, and bounded through the water up to its shoulders, a spectacular sight.  I also saw a large buck, and it stood its ground and stared me down.  Hunters were nearby, and I could hear shots, so I wore my bright clothing. 

I also encountered barbed wire across the river.  It was not well marked, and I complained to the ranger about it.  I was able to get under it, but I can't imagine that this is legal, much less civilized.  I also was faced down by a herd of cattle, about 40, that came running to the river's edge, then stopped and stared me down.  I was momentarily stunned by their sudden appearance, but as I paddled to put some distance between me and them, they retreated back up the hill. 

I camped out again Saturday night, but this time in the van alongside Five Island Lake at Emmetsburg.  The snow was quite heavy,. but I managed a cozy fire at the campsite.  On sunday, the trees were all wrapped in white.  I started in at Wallingford, where I had left off.  The trip was 16 miles, and I was done by 3:30.  I did stop and heat up some hot water for tea on my little sterno stove about 10 miles into the row.  All my winter gear worked great, including the new waterproof gloves and the waterproofing on my Sorel Snowbear boots. 

2 weeks ago it was full fall foliage and 50 degrees.  This weekend, 30 degrees, snow, and not a leaf in sight.  The great blue heron was with me both days, and I was much comforted by his escort.  The van and the tow car are a flawless team, making these adventures possible.  My self-inflating bedroll and my winter sleeping bag also worked as advertised.  This was a test of gear as well as stamina, and all went well. 

So, 360 miles down and 40 to go on the 400 miles of the Des Moines River.  I can drive for hours now and still be right near a stretch of the river with which I am intimately acquainted.  I know every access point, every obstacle, and every scenic place along a 400 mile stretch of river, winter and summer.  As I tell Margaret, it's my river, I own it, I'm glad the summer pretenders are done for the season.  I am, however, willing to share what I like to call the Des Moines River Canoe and Kayak  Trail.

Love,

Gigs and Megs