Until we get some rain, there is a new sport for Iowa rivers: low water, cold weather kayaking.  As I discovered in Keosauqua in December, if you're going downstream, you have to get out of the boat and walk through low water rapids.  If you don't have the right gear, your feet will get very cold very fast.

I have the right gear now, and Yellow Banks to Runnels was the perfect place for the full test, near home but real wilderness, 12 miles of the Des Moines River at it's remote and wild best.  

It was 18 degrees when I dropped the tow car off at the Runnels Bridge Access, off Delaware Rd. and Hwy. 5.  The river was open, with ice at the edges, and the boat ramp was clear of ice.  I didn't see anyone else out, don't know why.

At Yellow Banks, the gate was open to the lower road, so I went on down.  It took me a half hour to get the boat set up and the gear on, including: neoprene socks, wool socks, Seal Skinz waterproof socks, waterproof muklaks, wet suit, Sorel boot liners with thick soles, waterproof pants, and rain jacket.  A new set of thermal underwear (top and bottom) was a comfortable addition  to the outdoor gear.

A very large eagle waited on a branch until I got launched, and then flew with me for several miles, wheeling, soaring, then braking and turning in mid-flight.  This eagle was joined by 5-6 other immature bald eagles, and there was never a time without eagles during the entire 5 hour trip.

The water was running fairly fast, but at least 8-10 feet below flood stage.  The water was very clear, and I could see the sandy bottom several feet down.  It was a cloudy, windy, cold day, but I stayed quite warm.  I hit the first low water rapids about 2 miles downstream, and was thrilled to see that the river bottom was completely covered with multi-colored rocks and pebbles.  Nearly every one of the low water rapids was covered with rocks along this section of the river.  At about 4 miles, the rapids were less than 4 inches deep, and the walking began.  The time spent with the gear paid off right here, because my feet stayed warm and dry even after walking more than a dozen times for several minutes each time.

Several miles into the trip, the immature eagles gave way to a squadron of mature eagles with brilliant white heads and tails.  These great birds soared in and out of the trees during the rest of my paddle.  It is amazing to watch them ride the thermals up thousands of feet in the air, then drop down to perch on a branch .  They were especially welcome company through the 7 mile long switch-backs that make this stretch of the river one of the most remote and challenging sections to paddle.  It is very helpful to have a GPS with each of these bends marked, because it seems as though you are in a maze after an hour or so.

I broke out of the turning river and the high bluffs just past the Hartford access, and ran into a strong wind and 2-foot waves as I made for the Runnels bridge.  I was once again grateful to have a boat that can skim over the low water rapids and then gracefully handle strong winds and heavy waves.

After recovering my gear with the tow car and returning to Yellow Banks, I was blessed with the sight of a family of  deer crossing the access road, the perfect end to a perfect expedition.

Gerry Rowland 
Des Moines