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Keosauqua, 12/19/98

  December 20, 1998

It's a cold one in Iowa, down below zero for the first time this year.

I have done the Des Moines. I paddled the great Horseshoe Bend from Keosauqua to
Bentonsport on Saturday, about 12 miles. This was my first long distance paddle in cold
weather, so there is a tale to tell.

Since this is about 3 hours from home, I decided to drive down on Friday and camp out.
There is a fine campground in Bentonsport, so I set up my tent and sleeping bag as soon
as I pulled in. The dogs in the yards near the campground took some exception to my
presence, breaking into howls every time I shook out a section of the tent. I half
expected the neighbors to come out and help me get things set up so they could get back
to sleep. The sleeping bag worked well even in the cold weather (it was about 20
degrees), and I was able to pull the bag around my face and stay comfortable all night.
The foam pad recommended by Dunhams for a ground cover also worked well.

The trip to Bentonsport was a workout. I had temps in the mid teens and a strong wind
from the NW, so when the river turned N outside of Keosauqua, there were some tall
waves to fight off. The kayak was up to the job, as it has been all along, and once I got
turned SE, it was a fast ride. I made a stop in Bentonsport, then continued on to
Bonaparte. I talked with people in the stores and restaurants, and they recognized me
from letters to the editor. I got a very good response to the river trail idea. It was very
nice to make contact with friendly people.

I am very pleased with my winter gear. I added waterproof pants to my system, and I
am sitting on a rubber mousepad, which gives just enough insulation to make sitting
comfortable. Even in the cold wind, I am quite warm. The insulated Sorel boots with
waterproofing keep my feet dry and warm. The launch is everything in cold weather. If
one can get into the boat with feet and legs relatively dry, the paddling soon warms you
up. I also love the waterproof gloves from Campmor. The launch at Keosauqua was
difficult due to very muddy bottom conditions, and I ended up laying out across the
boat with my legs fully in the water, but the gear stayed good and dry.

The wildlife was quite abundant. The eagles were out on the run to the N, and their
white plumage looked like snowballs in the sycamores and river birches. Ther were 5 or
more eagles at the turn to the SE, and they flew right across the boat as they flew back to
the W. It's interesting how they will fly out ahead of the boat, and then they have gone
far enough and they pay no attention to an insignificant kayak as they go where they
please. I also startled a flock of pheasants, and they flew across the bow of the boat and
up into the tall cliffs, where they disappeared into the crevices.

To celebrate the end of 9 months of hard paddling, I purchased an 1846 map of Iowa at
the Van Buren General Store. It shows the area by Des Moines as the territory of the
Sauks and Foxes...most of Iowa was Indian territory at the time of statehood. It is
fascinating to follow the course of the Des Moines on a 153 year old map. I made a fire
in the campgrounds by the river, brewed up some tea, and enjoyed my treasures. I love
being on the river and being in Iowa.

River trails in the land of the Sauks and the Foxes . . .why hasn't anyone thought of this
before?